by Jim "Nobody" Cornell
The battle was won and the heads were taken. The most cowardly of them were put on pikes in hopes that a slow and painful death might cleanse them of their flaw that they may pass into the afterlife.
I decided to do a piece for my Skorne army. I wanted it to offer up a place for the boys to sit back, after a full day of dispatching the the enemy, put their feet up and toss back a cold one while they took a moment to enjoy the fruits of their labors. I decided that a torii to their many victories was an absolute necessity. I hope you enjoy what I came up with.
Your favorite basing material
Thin sheet styrene
Paper mache (Celluclay)
Spackle or contour putty
Various Revenant Crew miniatures
Flock or static grass
Step 1: I Cut your basing material to the size and shape you want and bevel the edges.
Step 2: Use the template below to cut the required support pieces. I used 1/2" styrene that I found on the side of the road but foamcore. Masonite or thick sheet styrene could also work.
Step 3: Assemble as shown.
Step 4: Cover the two open ends with thin sheet styrene and apply spackle to the corners and top. Allow to dry and sand smooth. Pay extra attention when sanding the bottoms that they balance when placed upright.
Step 5: Use the template below to cut the top pieces. You may want to double up is you are using thin foamcore, etc. You could also pour plaster and cut to a shape. The small stone supports for the upper platform could be fashioned from greenstuff.
Step 6: Attach finished supports to the base.
Step 7: Apply Celluclay where you want the skull mounds to be. Allow to dry.
Step 8: Use greenstuff to fashion skulls over Celluclay mounds. This may seem like a huge undertaking but I really rather enjoyed it (I'll be taking my medication now).
Step 9: Attach dirt with whiteglue and allow to dry.
Step 10: Snip your brass rod to the desired length.
Step 11: Use a drill to make a hole through each Revenant Crew mini to accommodate the brass rod. Be sure to choose a drill bit that matches the diameter of the rod. Place a drop of superglue near one end of the rod and slide the mini over the drop. Allow to dry.
Step 12: Make the bracken bushes with picture wire using the same technique used in past tutorials.
Step 13: Use a pin vise to drill holes between the skulls to accommodate the brass rods and bracken.
Step 14: Paint everything in its darkest shade. For the dirt I used beige; skulls—ivory with a diluted sepia ink wash; minis—light gray and light blue with a diluted black ink wash; poles—burnt umber; perch—stone gray and white.
Step 15: Apply a mid-range color to everything. For the dirt I used khaki and sand; skulls—ivory; minis—ivory, flat Earth, pale red and white added to the light gray and light blue; perch—stone gray and ivory; bracken—light gray and white.
Step 16: Apply highlights to everything. For the dirt I used stone gray; skulls—white; minis—lighter shades of everything; perch—ivory and white.
Step 17: Paint any additional detail you may want to finish it out.
Step 18: Spray with seal. I use two thin coats of gloss and two thin coats of Dullcoat allowing each coat to dry before applying the next.
There you go, an unusual terrain piece that catches the eye and can break up a flat area on your tabletop. Crossing the skull mounds can constitute difficult terrain.
Afterthoughts: I would give myself more than the 10 days I allotted myself to get this done. I originally gave myself 3 weeks but my work sent me, unexpectedly, to Omaha for a week. It still came out pretty good for a rush job.
If you have any questions or just want to thrash me verbally you can reach me at email@example.com.
Liefies and all of that crap,