Rocks and Rivets Pt.2
by Jim "Nobody" Cornell

A thick sooty smoke belches skyward. Metal grinds against metal and branches snap as the colossal crashes through the heavy underbrush. Its goal: To get close enough to the gates that it can bring its enormous hammer to bear. The spears and axers of the Trollkin defenders have almost no effect on the giant metal beast as it nears the village walls. Sensing all is lost the defenders panic and scatter. Another moment and the outer defenses will be pulverized into rubble and the village lost.

Suddenly the colossal lurches, its feet tangled in a trap of logs and chains. It stumbles as its forward momentum forces it to its knees. And just as suddenly, half of the great beast disappears into a cacophony of splintered wood and flying debris that once covered the forest floor hiding a large troll-made pit. A trap within a trap!

As it struggles to right itself, the defenders quickly regroup and attack the downed warmachine. Unable to get its feet, the great beast is defenseless and within moments the defenders are able to separate it head from the rest of its smoking mass. Horrified, the attackers break and flee with many of them being run down by pursuing Trollkin. The powers that make up the Iron Kingdoms will need to rethink their strategies before attacking the Trollkin again!

Many years later the sun-bleached and rusting hulk is still half submerged in the pit that is now overgrown with foliage. Its head sits on a pole as a grim reminder to anyone foolish enough to want to take this village by force...

That is what I was thinking when I was thinking when I started the project but it quickly degenerated into a when-you-put-your-piece-next-to-Scarab's-Trollkin-village-piece-try-not-to-let-your's-suck type of project. I am not sure if it worked out, but I hope you like it.

Materials Needed:
1/4" masonite (as big as you want the base to be)
1/2" dowel
1 small screw
Thick styrene
Thin styrene
2 plastic baseballs
2 plastic "Wiffle" balls
3/4" PVC pipe
5 ea. 3/
4" PVC pipe couplings
1 3" PVC pipe coupling
An empty fruit cup container
Window screen material
Various bits from your morgue (I'll show you what I used from mine)
Various plastic plants
Celluclay (paper mache)
Plant roots
Clump foliage
Card stock
Hot glue

Step 1: The Base
Cut your base to the size and shape you want and bevel the edge. I used 1/4" masonite (1A).

Step 2: Base Support
The pole holding the colossal's head needs to be sturdy as it may take a lot of wear and tear over time. Drill a hole to accommodate to screw where you want the pole to meet the base. Use a larger drill bit to recess the head of the screw so it doesn't scratch up your gaming surface (2A).

Step 3: The Pole
The pole was made using a 1/2" dowel. I cut the length at 9" Attach to the base with a screw. (2A).

Step 4: The Torso
Cut thick styrene to make the torso using the templates (4A, 4B & 4C).

I used the base of an old 1/72nd scale Space Shuttle model for the back (4D). The rest of it was made from styrene.

Step 5: The Back Vents
Cut thick styrene to fashion the back vents using the template below. You will need to make two of them (5A).

Glue the styrene pieces together. Add a piece of window screen material to finish it off. Do not attach to the colossal until the very last.

Step 6: The Smoke Stacks
Tape two 3/4" PVC pipe couplings together to ensure that they are sanded at the same angle. I set my sanding wheel to 25 degrees and removed tape when I was done (6A).

Cut 3/4" PVC pipe into two 3" lengths and insert into couplings. I found a plastic tube in my morgue that fit the PVC pipe perfectly. I cut it in half and glued it to the top of the smoke stacks. I then used a 3/16" bit to drill venting holes. Attach each smoke stack to the back of the colossal.

Step 7: Torso Extras
The extra bits are from my morgue (7A).

Step 8: The Neck Collar
Cut the 3" PVC coupling as sown in the sample below. Sand the edges then glue in place (8A).

Step 9: The Shoulders
Take two plastic baseballs and sand off the stitching (9A).

Cut the ball similar to the shape shown below (9B).

Cut two 3" disks out of thick styrene and cut notches in it to make it look like a gear (9B).

Create a flat spot onto two "Wiffle" balls. I created the flat spots on this piece by pressing the fenestrated side of the balls against the spinning wheel of a sander. Glue the baseballs and ""Wiffle" balls to the disks and then onto both sides of the torso. I added a few gears here and break up the flat spots.

Step 10: The Hammer
Cut heavy styrene using the template (10A). Glue pieces together. It is designed to list to one side.

Decorate the hammerhead with bits from your morgue. I used a 5-gallon water bottle lid, half of a plastic Easter egg, and a Khador logo I cut from thick styrene (10B).

Cut a piece of 3/4" PBC pipe to a length of 15". Make the handle grip by taking two 3/4" PVC couplings and cut them into 1/4" rings. Sand the rings and slide them onto the handle as shown (10C). Save one ring for the other end of the handle where it meets the head I used part of a plastic capsule from a gumball machine to cover the grip end of the handle (save the lid for Step 13).

Attach hammer handle to hammer head (10D).

Step 11: The Abdomen
Cut two 3" circles from thick styrene. Cut a piece of thin styrene 1" x 9.42" (se, that public education was good for something!) and glue it around the circumference of the disks making a drum (11A).

Take the empty fruit cup container and cut holes in the sides to accommodate a 5" piece of 3/4" PVC pipe that will join the hip to the abdomen. Glue it to the drum you made in the first part of Step 11. Now glue the abdomen structure to the bottom of the torso.

Step 12: The Hip
There are two parts that make up the hip. For the first part, cut two pieces of heavy styrene (12A). Also cut a piece of thin styrene1" x 7-1/2" and glue it around the hip. The second part is the hip joint. Assemble the two parts separately and allow to dry. Then glue the two parts together. When the super structure is together then attach it to the PVC pipe on the abdomen from Step 11 (12B)

I then added the lid to a 5-gallon water bottle and the lid to a small water bottle.

Step 13: The Arm
For the bicep and the forearm, cut two pieces of 3/4" PVC pipe into 3" lengths, For the wrist and the place where the bicep joins the shoulder, cut a 3/4" PVC pipe coupling in half. Place a half on each length of pipe. For the elbow, determine the angle you want the arm to form and glue the bicep and forearm to two 5-gallon water bottle lids (13A & 13B). Cut a strip of thin styrene to cover the gap between the two bottle lids. The wrist is the lid of the plastic capsule from a gumball machine used in Step 10. Fill any gaps with plastic putty or greenstuff. Both bicep and forearm were decorated with lengths of bass guitar wire.

Step 14: The Hand
The hand was cut out of 1/2" Sintra (you could substitute with another kind of plastic or wood product) using the template below. All hard corners were rounded using sandpaper. Some joints were also beveled to force the fingers to curl into a more relaxed position. The knuckles were fashioned out of greenstuff. Attach the hand to the arm and the arm to the shoulder (14A & 14B).

Step 15: The Head
The head is made from the body of a Star Wars AT/AT Walker. The chin was elongated using styrene with a HO scale window as a screen on the front. The face shield was cut from thick styrene using the template below. 1/8" holes were drilled in the shield for ventilation.The jaws were made from spacers from new superglue bottles (15A).

Step 16: The Bolts
The rivets are two parts. I used an1/8" punch on thick styrene and a 1/16" punch on thin styrene, glued the large one to the colossal and the smaller one on top of the small one to make the look of a bolt with a nut through it.

Step 17: The Trap
Cut ten 1/4" and 1/2 dowels into1-1/2" to3" lengths. Put a point on one end as if it were cut with an axe. Image 17A shows the logs for the Khador Wilderness Fort in the Home Sweet Fort tutorial. You will need to cut the blunt end at a more acute angle than shown in the photo so the logs look as though they are coming out of the ground.

The chains connecting the logs were made by joining links together. The bands around the logs and the weld between the band and the chains were fashioned out of greenstuff (17B & 17C).

Draw an outline on the base to determine where the pit should be. Glue the logs around the perimeter and form a small berm around the pit (and between the logs with celluclay).

Step 18: The Trees
I learned how to do the these banyan-type trees from the Floating Earth tutorial Scarab did. He bumped it to make room for Rocks a
nd Rivets Pts 1 & 2 so in a nonsensical way the tutorial will post after this one (it's the next one actually). Only a weenie would take someone else's idea and claim it as his own so, refer to the Circle Sacred Ground to learn how to do trees like this. Sorry about that!

Step 19: Painting the Base
Cover the entire base with whiteglue (except for the center of the pit) and sprinkle with dirt. Allow to dry then apply a black basecoat to the entire base and trees. When the basecoat is dry paint the base and trees (for the rest of this step leave center of pit black) P3 battlefield Brown (19A). Then give everything a loose coat of Vallejo Paint Flat Earth followed by a looser coat of VP Green Brown (19B) and drybrush highlight of VP Stone Gray (19C).

Step 20: Painting the Hammer
The steel portions of the hammer where painted as follows: coats of VP gunmetal; GW Stormbolter Gray; and a light drybrush of GW Mithril Silver. The rust started with a mixture of one part black ink, two parts of sepia ink, and three parts each of P3 Battlefield Brown and VP Flat Earth. The mixture was applied with a toothbrush using my thumb to flick the solution off the bristles onto the hammer. I then dabbed layers of the following colors: P3 Battlefield Brown, VP Flat Earth, P3 Khador Red Highlight, and VP Light Orange.

The handle grips and other brass parts were painted as follows: Coats of GW Tin Bits; GW Brazen Brass; and highlights of GW Burnished Gold. These parts were weathered using a very diluted wash of VP Green Blue to VP White (20A).

Step 21: Painting the Head and Body
The face shield was painted in the same manner as the brass parts in Step 20. The head and body were given a coat of P3 Khador Red Base. Then all areas that would be exposed by the sun were painted with a mix of P3 Khador Red Base and VP Neutral Gray and highlighted with a drybrush of VP Light Gray (21A).

Step 22: Glue the Hammer and Colossal to the Base
Glue the hammer and super structure to the base using a hot glue gun.

Step 23: The Foliage
The foliage is plastic plant purchased from a craft store. Be sure to wash it first with warm soapy water. I then divided it into three piles, spraying one pile khaki, one dark green and one medium green. I then added veins and highlights. I then filled all of the gaps in the pit around the colossal (23A & 23B).

Step 24: The Grass
Affix static grass to the base with whiteglue.

Step 25: Easter Eggs
I made some flowers, mushrooms, and a bird's n
est with a couple of speckled eggs in it for the tutorial. To make the flowers I used thin styrene and a 1/16" punch to make the flower centers. I stuck them all to a piece of masking tape. I made the flower petals using the same punch and some white card stock. Place a drip of glue onto each small piece of styrene. Then attach three to five petals to each piece of styrene. When they are dry turn them over on the tape and paint the centers using a mixture of VP Green Brown and VP Yellow. When the paint is dry remove fro tape and attach to base (25A & 25B).

I made the mushrooms by rolling small balls of greenstuff and placing them on a plastic bag and flattening them. When the greenstuff had cured I removed the mushrooms and attached them to the base. I then used mixtures of VP White, GW Bleached Bone, and VP Flat Earth Paints (25C & 25D).

I made the bird's nest by putting a glob of greenstuff on the end of the paintbrush to shape it into a bowl. I removed the greenstuff while it was still soft and wrapped it with moss Scarab used for his trees and was kind enough to give me. I then touched up the shape with the end of the same paintbrush until most of the greenstuff was covered with moss. I then rolled two small eggs out of greenstuff and placed it in the nest. When it was all cured I painted the next with mixtures of VP Flat Earth and GW Bleached Bone. I painted the eggs with VP Blue and the speckles with VP White and allowed it to dry. I then glued it in place under the shoulder plate (25E & 25F).

Afterthoughts: This was a fun project. The challenge was to find shapes that would work with the overall vision I had for the piece. Another challenge was to make it look sun bleached. If I had to do it again I would have had more blistered paint and a lot more rust. Maybe to the point of rotting clear through the metal.

Tedious looking thins like a zillion rivets, Easter eggs and bark really score high on the aesthetics scale. If you have never stooped to that level of lunacy before try it in a small area on your next terrain piece. You may find it worth it.