Skorne Building
by Pat "Pat" Ohta

Looks like even the most vile must be housed somewhere...

Materials Needed:
Foam board
Spackle
Beads
Rabbet cutter
Hot glue
Toy door
Foam balls and cones

The Structure

Step 1: I first cut out the walls to make the main structure (1A).

Step 2: Next, I used a rabbet cutter on all of the connecting edges. A rabbet is a groove cut into the edge of the board that allows you to make very nice 90 degree corners (2A).

Step 3: I used a piece of 2" foam to form the base of the main structure and the ramp leading up to it (3A).

Step 4: Then I glued the main structure together and attached the base (4A & 4B).

Step 5: Next, I started to work on the side of the building. I cut the walls and roof out of foam core. Then, just like the main structure, I made rabbet cuts and glued it together (5A, 5B & 5C).

Step 6: Now I was ready to start on the towers. First, I cut out a wide pentagon and then scored vertical lines on it. This allowed me to easily bend the foam core into a tube. Then I glued the edges together and set aside (6A, 6B & 6C).

Step 7: I then cut two holes for the tower to rest in. Once I was satisfied with the test fit, I glued the tower in place (7A & 7B).

Step 8: Using the same technique I made two more towers and completed the other half of the building.

Step 9: I also cut a slope for the ramp and added walls to it (9A).

Step 10: To cap the towers, I used foam balls from the craft store (10A).

Step 11: I cut off about 1/4" of each ball and glued them to the tower (11A & 11B).

Step 12: Then I sanded the balls into shape (12A).

Step 13: To make the entryway, I used a door from an old toy. I glued it into place and used foam core to form the archway (13A & 13B).

Step 14: To make the pointy things surrounding the building, I cut foam core squares in half then I beveled the edges and glued it to the building (14A, 14B &14C).

Step 15: Next, I covered the entire building with spackle. The brand that I used has a dry time indicator. It goes on pink and dries to white. After each layer dried I would lightly sand it before applying a second layer. In total I applied four to five layers on the piece (15A, 15B &15C).

Step 16: Once this was done I added some decorative carving to the building. To do this I would apply a thin layer of spackle, and imprint a bead design by rolling it over the spackle (16A, 16B & 16C).

Step 17: Next I cut window holes into the towers (17A).

Step 18: To add the spike to the top of each tower, I first needed to paint several layers of paint on the top of the towers. I did this because dry spackle feels dusty and the glue will not bond to it properly (18A).

Step 19: While the paint was drying, I started to carve out brick work. This gives the impression that some of the building's plaster has fallen off (19A, 19B & 19C).

Step 20: When the paint was nice and dry I glued foam cones to the top of each tower and sanded them into shape (20A & 20B).

Step 21: I also covered it in spackle and sanded smooth (21A).

Step 22: The last thing to do was to get statures for the front of the building. For this, I turned to Hawaii artist Soloman Enos who sculpted statues out of Apoxie Sculpt to go along the side of the door (22A & 22B).

This was a fun but time consuming project.

Pat