Ohta's Cryx Building
by Pat Ohta


Materials Needed:
1/4" Foamcore or Gator Board
Plastic O scale Random Cursed Stone plastic sheet
Model train doors and windows
Hot glue gun
Plastruct I Beam
Thick plastic card
Thin plastic card
1/4" plastic tube
2-part epoxy party
Depron foam sheets
Cyanoacrylate glue
Bits from the Warmachine & Hordes ranges

The Walls
Step 1: Cut two 3" X 6" spices of and two 3" X 3.5" pieces out of foamcore to make the lower half of the building (A1).

Step 2: Cut two 3" X 6" pieces to be the front walls of the building's upper floor. To make the sides, cut 3" X 5" X 5" pieces, and for the floor cut a 5" X 6" piece.

Step 3: Use a rabbet cutter to cut a recess into the connecting sides of the foam core. If you don't have a rabbet cutter, you can cut the recess using a sharp hobby knife. (3A, 3B & 3C)

Step 4: Use all of the pieces as templates and trace them onto Plastruct O scale Random Cursed Stone plastic sheet. Cut these pieces out and glue the to the foamcore.
(4A & 4B)

The Doors and Windows
Step 5:
A good source for windows and doors are model train building and toys. Cut out your door and windows. Place them on the walls and trace around them. Cut out the hole and glue the windows and door in place (5A).

Step 6: Use hot glue to assemble all of the walls Glue the top to the bottom floor (6A).

Step 7: Cut a piece of Plastruct I beam to make the support brace and glue it in place. (7A, 7B & 7C)

Step 8: To clean up the edges, glue 1/4" angle strips to the sides of the walls. To hide the seam between the first and second floor, cover it with 3/16" channel strips. (8A, 8B & 8C)

The Roof
Step 9:
This building is going to have a sagging copper roof. To achieve this effect, cut 1/4" strips of foamcore and glue them to the top of the building. Space out the strips so the roof can sag in between the gaps (9A).

Step 10: To make the roof cut two 3-1/2" X 6-1/2" pieces from thick plastic card. To form the panel lines, cut strips from thin plastic card. In this case I used it for a "For Sale" sign. (10A, 10B, 10C, 10D & 10E)

Step 11: Glue the roof to the building. To cover the seam between the two roof panels cut a strip of card and glue it on (11A).

Step 12: If the roof doesn't sit flush with the wall the gap can be covered by gluing a thin strip of plastic card between the two (12A).

Step 13: Use a heat gun to soften the plastic roof. As the plastic softens, gently push it in to create dents and sags (13A).

Step 14: Cut 1/4" plastic tubing into 1" lengths. Make a hood for it out of thin plastic card and glue it on. (14A & 14B)

Step 15: Draw the shape of a chimney onto foamcore. Cut out two of these. This well become your template (15A). Sandwich a piece of EPS foam and use a foam cutter to cut away the excess (15B).

Step 16: Using a ball point pen, draw out horizontal lines and then draw in each individual brick. Be sure to randomize the brick pattern. It's okay if any of the foam chips, it will add to the appearance (16A).

Step 17: Use 320 grit sand paper and gently sand down the chimney. Be sure to smooth out the edges to give it a worn appearance.

Step 18: Cut out support bands for the smoke stack. Use thin plastic card and cut 1/4" strips. Apply with glue. (18A & 18B)

Step 19: To make the cowl, cut 1/4" plastic tubing into 1" lengths. drill holes vertically along the tube and glue in place. (19A & 19B)

Step 20: Attach the chimney to the side of the building (20A).

The Window Shutters
Step 21:
Start by cutting the backing out of think plastic card. The second floor shutters are 5/8" x 7/8" (21A).
Glue on thin strips of bass wood to the backing. Be careful not to get glue on the wood, because that will keep the paint from sticking. (21B & 21C)

Step 22: Flip the shutter over and trim the excess wood off. Glue the shutters in place. (22A & 22B)

Step 23: The first floor shutters are made in the same way, just 1" X 1-1/2" (23A).

The Building Entrance
Step 24:
Make steps out of foam and glue into place (24A).

Step 25: The columns flanking the door are made from foamcore. Cut a piece 1-1/4" X 3". Cut a decorative curve into it. Cover this edge with plastic card. Glue the column into place. (25A & 25B)

The Shack
Step 26:
To make the walls of the shack cut out the following pieces from foamcore—Back: 3" X 3-1/2"; Sides; 3" X 2" X 2-1/2" (facing front panel); Front: 2-1/2" X 3-1/2" (26A).

Step 27: Cut the window holes into the walls.

Step 28: Use a rabbet cutter to recess the edges, and put it together with hot glue.

Step 29: Cut a hole for another chimney. Glue a 1/2" PVC pipe 5-1/2" long with a pipe cutter and glue into the elbow. Add banding strips using thin plastic card (29A).

Step 30: Using wood glue, attach bass wood to the shack to make wooden planks. (30A & 30B)

Step 31: Add details to the wooden planks by using a sharp blade. Alternate the lengths of wood and add nail holes. (31A & 31B)

Step 32: Add a plastic card roof, a vent and cover it with shingles. Make the shingles from stiff card, and glue on in a random pattern. (32A & 32B)

Step 33: Make flaps to cover the window, this is done using thin plastic card (33A).

Step 34: To make the legs for the shack cut 2-7/8" pieces of bass wood and glue them on the bottom. Use a sharp blade and add nail holes (34A).

Step 35: Cryx buildings have lots of patches and no organized construction. To simulate this, behind the shack will be some random stone patchwork. Use Depron foam sheets to make this Depron is thin foam like the type you get with meat trays and fast food containers (35A). Carve a random stone pattern into it and glue it on the side of the building (35B). Now attach the shack to the building (35C).

Step 36: Add rivets! No building in the Iron Kingdoms is complete without rivets. Make many different sizes of rivets to add realism. You can use a rotary tool or a rivet punch. I used a rivet punch to make the many different sizes of rivets needed for this project. Simply insert plastic card and punch out the rivets using a steel die (36A & 36B). Apply the rivets with cyanoacrylate glue (36C).

The Lamps
Step 37:
The lamps for the building were made from parts from the Warmachine and Horde ranges from Privateer Press. (37A, 37B & 37C)

The following are some photos of other buildings I made for this set. I hope you enjoy them!