Bunker Tutorial

By Scarab

Tutorial Date 3/26/06

Techniques Used:
Concrete Weathering, Dirt and Grass, Eggshell Vines, Razor Wire, Rivets

Materials Needed

1/4" Foam Core Poster Board

1/4" Masonite Wood

1/2" PVC pipe

120 grain sand paper

60 grain sand paper

Acrylic Paint

Balsa Wood

Bowl, plastic

Bull Wire (picture wire)

Damp wash clothe

Dirt, filtered


Joint Compound


Paint Brush

Putty Knife



Sand, filtered

Scroll Saw

Sharp Craft Knife

Sheet Styrene

Stick Pins

Strainer, fine

Super Glue (Jell Bondini)


White Glue

Wire Cutters

Step by Step

You want to have your bunker to scale. This is 1/48th scale (1 inch equals 4 feet). I used a Cygnar Long Gunner to make sure it all worked as I put it together.

After I determined how large I wanted it (I actually drew on the wood to make sure) I cut out a piece of Masonite making sure it had rounded edges to give it a more organic feel. I then filed down the edges of the wood to give a gentle slope I then measured and cut some foam core. I used white glue and stickpins to hold it together while it dried.

After it dried I applied joint compound on the foam core (1/16 to 1/8 inch thick), making sure to fill in the cracks.

I put the bunker in front of a fan to speed the drying process along. The compound will more than likely crack, which is okay. Sand the bunker with 60 grain sand paper to smooth it out for a second coat. Apply a thinner second coat of compound and let it dry. You may need to apply a third. Sand with 60 grain sand paper and then with 120 grain.

Cut out your next level, glue and pin together and let dry.

Repeat Steps 5 through 8 on the new foam core area and blend the two pieces together. After you have sanded the whole bunker and got it smooth, take a damp washcloth and go over it, this will take all the sand lines out of it and make it smooth.

Determine how many straight Iron Barriers you want. Take your sheet styrene and cut into 2–1/2" and 1-1/2" lengths based on your decision.

For every Barrier you want a piece with two cuts creating a point and one piece with just one cut at about a 60-degree angle. Using super glue, glue the pieces together.

Take some Bull wire and your PVC pipe. Wrap your Bull wire around your pipe until you get the desired amount. Cut the end.

Place joint compound in front of your bunker.

Take your barriers and dab a little bit of joint compound on the bottom side before you insert them in front of the bunker. Insert them on a higher angle than you want them to finally rest. You may want to build something to prop them up, like books. Take your coiled Bull wire and lay it across the front of your bunker. It may move your Barriers. Slightly push the wire in the compound. Take your small putty knife and cover the wire that is in the compound to give it a flat surface. Make sure everything is propped up and let dry. Take filtered sand (sand strained through screen the size of window screen). Spread white glue on the surface of your bunker in front, sides and partially around back. Apply the filtered sand generously and let dry. Apply some sand in the crevasses on the upper level as well. Note: Whenever applying glue or anything that can cause the wood to warp while drying, make sure you weight your wood down so it dries flat.

I made a trap door with a square piece of sheet styrene with smaller strips for a border. I then took scrap plastic sprues and melted them and while they were hot I stretched them into thin plastic pieces. I then cut them up and glued them on my trap door (on the small border strips) with crazy glue. After they were dry I cut them down to make rivets. I bent and cut a stickpin for the handle and cut small strips of a stickpin for each hinge.

I made the door in a similar fashion. I used a pinhead for the doorknob. I made the ivy by crushing and straining eggshells with the same strainer I used for the sand and the dirt.

I then used white glue and applied it to the bunker and sprinkled eggshells over the glue and lightly tapped. For a thicker look you can repeat the process.

To make the bullet holes and such I took my Craft knife and would lightly stab it and then snap it to one side to take a chunk out. For smaller holes I used stickpins. For the larger explosive rounds I do a little carving with the craft knife (you can plan ahead and actually carve out some foam so you can apply more compound to work with, you can also use stickpins for rebar). I sprayed the entire bunker with GW White primer. Now I am ready to paint. I prefer doing washes with Ceramcoat paint (just a preference and I like the texture). I used a small cup to mix my first wash in which is about 2% milk consistency. I used Storm Grey (dark Grey) for my first coat. When I apply it, if it turns out too dark (which I prefer) I just dip my brush in clear water and thin it out while it is on the bunker until I get the look I am after. This step you want to do very quick so you don’t get drying lines. I started at one end and moved across. Vary your gray wash to get a varied cement look.

I then used Spice Tan (medium brown) and Green Isle (medium, dark green) to dry brush and do some spot washes. When I do spot washes I always wipe it immediately after so it doesn’t get drying lines caused by pigment drying along the edges. I also dry brushed green where the cement comes in contact with the earth to give the feel of algae growing. I will also use actual dirt and rub it onto the bunker.

I turned my attention to the ivy. I painted it Green Isle (you can do a darker wash on it if you prefer). I dry brushed Jubilee Green and then finally Livery Green (Vallejo Paint) on the edges lightly.

I used GW Boltgun to paint the doors and then did a black wash over top. Came back and highlighted with GW Chainmail and Boltgun. I then dry brushed Ceramcoat Iron Oxide over top. After everything on the bunker was painted I did a Ceramcoat Spice Tan wash over the sand (3 parts paint, one part water). I wanted some of the sand to still be seen.

I did a spot wash of (skim milk consistency) black in random areas. When that dried I took Burnt Sienna and mixed Black in it to give it a dark brown look and did a 50/50 wash over the sand. After everything is dry, I went back and drybrushed Ceramcoat Spice Tan and then lightly dry brushed Ceramcoat Trail Tan.

I made a stencil for my walking platform inside the bunker out of paper to make sure it fit. I made the platform out of balsa wood. The theory behind the platform is so a trooper that is not engaging the enemy can have more room to move without getting one in the head.

I roughed up the platform a little with my knife to give it a worn look. I painted it with a Spice Tan and a very thin Burnt Sienna wash. I used a black wash to darken in between the planks. After that I dry brushed a light grey to give it a faded look. I glued the platform in and let it dry. Now in the area in the back and inside the bunker I applied white glue and heavily applied my strained dirt. After it dries I highlighted it with Trail Tan and for the worn paths in the dirt, I just rubbed it with my fingers until I got the look I was after. I painted the wire and the barriers in the same manor as the doors. After everything was painted and applied (not the grass) I sprayed the bunker with Testers Dull Cote. I then applied two to three different mixtures of static grass (some of which I have created by mixing various colors to my taste). I apply it in light patches so I can still see earth beneath it.

I am more than happy to field any questions. Just e-mail me at or you can respond on Privateer Press forum under this post.

Happy Trails…