To all the guys we’ve whacked before…
Skorne Buzzard Perch
Tutorial Date 10/22/06
I decided to do a piece for my Skorne army. I wanted it to offer up a place for my boys to sit back, after a full day of dispatching the enemy, put their feet up and toss back a cold one while they took a moment to enjoy the fruits of their labors. I decided that a totem to one of their many victories was an absolute necessity. I hope you enjoy what I came up with…
Corpses, Rock, Skulls
What you need to complete this project:
Your favorite material for the base
Thin sheet styrene
Paper mache (Celuclay)
Spackle or contour putty
Drill and drill bits
Various Revenant Crew miniatures
Flock or static grass
Step 1: Cut your basing material to the size and shape you want and bevel the edges.
Step 2: Use the template below to cut the required support pieces. I used 1/2" styrene that I found on the side of the road but foamcore, Masonite or thick sheet styrene could also work.
Step 3: Assemble as shown.
Step 4: Cover the two open ends with thin sheet styrene and apply spackle to the corners and top. Allow to dry and sand smooth. Pay extra attention when sanding the bottoms so that they will stand upright.
Step 5: Use the template below to cut the top pieces. You may want to double up if you are using thin foamcore etc. You could also pour plaster and cut to shape. The small stone supports for the upper platform could be fashioned from greenstuff.
Step 6: Attach finished supports to base.
Step 7: Apply Celuclay where you want the skull mounds to be. Allow to dry.
Step 8: Use greenstuff to fashion skulls over Celuclay mounds. This may seem like a huge undertaking but I really rather enjoyed it (I’ll be taking my medication now).
Step 9: Attach dirt with white glue and allow to dry.
Step 10: Snip your brass rod to your desired length.
Step 11: Use a drill to make a hole through each Revenant Crew mini to accommodate the brass rod. Be sure to choose a drill bit that matches the diameter of the rod. Place a drop of superglue near one end of the rod and slide the mini over the drop. Allow to dry.
Step 12: Make the bracken bushes with picture wire using the same technique used in past tutorials like the vines on the Umbral Cairn.
Step 13: Use a pinvise to drill holes between the skulls to accommodate the brass rods and bracken.
Step 14: Paint everything in its darkest shade. For the dirt I used beige; skulls—ivory with a diluted sepia ink wash; minis—light grey with diluted black ink wash; poles—burnt umber; perch—stone grey; bracken—light grey.
Step 15: Apply a mid range colors to everything. For the dirt I used khaki and sand; skulls—ivory; minis—light blue, ivory, flat earth, pale red; poles—flat earth; perch—stone grey and ivory; bracken—light grey and white.
Step 16: Apply highlights to everything. For the dirt I used stone grey; skulls—white; minis—lighter shades of everything; perch—ivory and white.
Step 17: Paint any additional detail you may want to finish it out.
Step 18: Spray with seal. I use two thin coats of gloss and two thin coats of dullcoat allowing each coat to dry before applying the next.
There you go, an unusual terrain piece that catches the eye and can break up a flat area of your tabletop. Crossing the skull mounds can constitute difficult terrain.
Afterthoughts: I would give myself more than the 10 days I allotted myself to get this done. I originally gave myself 3 weeks but my work sent me, unexpectedly to Omaha for a week. It still came out pretty good for a rush job.
If you have any questions or just want to thrash me verbally, you can reach me at
Liefies and all of that crap,