Crushed Ice

By Nobody

February 04, 2007

On the frozen tundra of the Great White North, titans meet on an impromptu crush of moving ice, locked in an epic struggle to show that they have the fortitude to overcome the imposing elements and the wretched designs of their foes to move a giant grinder of ice into their opponents goal. History will remember the side that overcome these obstacles as the victors and the other side as, uh, pantywaists who couldn’t.

Not every ‘Jack has access to a crush or grinder. If some want to play they have to improvise…

MATERIALS:

1/4" plexiglass (like material such as Masonite or foamcore would also work)

I package of DAK or similar air-drying clay

Craft foam (felt or similar material would also work)

Greenstuff

1 can dark blue pray paint

1 can white spray paint

1 Heavy ‘Jack base

Masking tape

Cyanoacrylate based glue (unless you are using Masonite or foamcore then carpenter’s glue will work)

Step 1: The Base

Cut a 36" X 36" base from 1/4" plexiglass.

Step 2: The Water

Peel off the protective paper from one side and spray paint dark blue.

Step 3: The River Edges

Cut 1/4" plex to make the icy shorelines and the goals using the templates below. You will need to make a set for each riverbank. They should each have a straight edge on one side. Line up the straight edges and glue them in order so that the larger one is at the bottom and the narrowest one is on top and allow to dry. Spray paint them white. Paint the edges light blue. Paint circles on each side to act as goals. I used red paint to look like the goals were painted in blood.

Step 4: The Floating Ice

Cut 1/4" plex to make the floating ice using the templates below. You will need to make about 48 of these. Spray them white. Paint the edges light blue.

NOTE: To break up the flatness and add some interest to the ice pieces I separated the pieces into four stacks. On one stack I added three small pieces of scrap left over from when I cut out the pieces. On another stack I added two small pieces. On another I added one and the last stack I left alone. This addition was also useful as part of a later house rule.

Step 5: The Catch

Make the catch by cutting the 1/4" plex in a rough 2" square. Spray it white. Paint the edges light blue.

Step 6: Ice Pads

Cut the craft foam into 3" squares (I used a brand that had an adhesive backing) and attach to the underside of the ice help prevent them from marring the "water" surface. Cut a smaller piece to attach to the bottom of the catch.

Step 7: The Grinder

Make a tape ball slightly smaller than you want the finished size of your grinder to be. Spread greenstuff on the large ‘Jack base. Then quickly cover the entire tape ball in greenstuff. Attach the grinder to the base before either of them have a chance to cure. Undercoat white and paint the under-shadow light blue.

Step 8: The Ice Bumpers

Split a package of DAK clay into two parts. Shape each part into an ice formation that will serve as a bumper. Allow to dry and spray white. Paint the under-shadows light blue.

HOUSE RULES

Any of these unofficial rules can be added when using this kind of table. Pick and choose as you wish…

RULE 1: Ice Floe—The ice is moving. Determine which way the river is flowing. When both sides have completed their turn roll 1d6 and confer to the table below to determine how far the ice floe has moved.

1 – 3 = 1 inch

4 – 5 = 2 inches

6 = 3 inches

When moving the ice start at the furthest point downstream. When a piece of ice strikes a piece of ice downstream its movement has ended.

When making the ice pieces I added small bits to some of them (see Step 4) so that I could have pieces moving at different rates from others. I then rolled 1d6 and conferred to the chart above four times (a roll for those that didn’t have any extra bits on them, a roll for those with one, a roll for one with two, etc). I recorded the results on a piece of paper and began moving the ice pieces starting with the piece furthest down stream.

If you want to add an additional degree of difficulty to the movement put a small dot on one corner of each piece of ice. When determining the distance the ice piece moves roll an additional 1d6 for each piece of ice that has a ‘Jack or the grinder on it and use the scatter template to determine which way the piece rotates. Example: Place the template over the ice piece and line the "6" arrow up with where the dot is on the ice. On a roll of 1 or 2 the ice rotates one arrow to the left, 3 or 4 there is no rotation, and 5 or 6 it rotates one arrow to the right.

RULE 2: Jumping—Jacks and the grinder may move normally from one ice piece to another that is within 1/2" without penalty. A ‘Jack may jump up to 1/2" of its basic movement. Example: A ‘Jack with a movement of 6" may move to a piece of ice that is up to 3" away regardless of whether it walked, charged, or ran.

RULE 3: The Grinder—The grinder in this game is a giant ball of ice. If it falls off a piece of ice, into the water, a controlling player loses control and the ice ball is treated as another piece of ice until it comes under control again. If the grinder moves off the downstream side of the board place it back on the catch.

RULE 4: Falling in the river—If a ‘jack falls into the water (whether it is slammed, etc.) determine damage normally except instead of having the wet ‘Jack having its furnace extinguished it takes an additional 1d6 damage and is placed back in its own deployment zone.

RULE 5: End Zones—Both shores are considered impassible.

Feel free to share any other rules you may come up with…

Cheers and all of that crap,

Nobody