This Thing’s Got Soul! Part 2

Cryxian Soul Mill

By Nobody

Tutorial Date 2/26/06

This is the second part of a two-part series…



Techniques Used:
Common Items, Greenstuff, Internal Lighting

What you need to complete this project:

Empty Gatorade bottle (needs to be transparent)

Green watercolor

Masking tape

16 oz aluminum can

Card stock

1/2" length of 1" diameter PVC pipe

Water bottle cap

A non-cyanoacrylate glue

A battery-powered light

An empty CD container

Permanent marker

Dremil

Scroll saw

Thick sheet styrene

Epoxy glue

Thin sheet styrene

Bits from your morgue

Super glue

Glue gun

White glue

Greenstuff

Dirt

Star Wars Snap-together AT-AT model

Model paints

Small 30-watt light bulb

Clear Silicone Adhesive

Thin stirring straw

Flock or static grass

Step 27: The arm is two legs from a Star Wars Snap-together AT-AT Walker. They were glued thigh-to-ankle. They look intricate but they are really just two pieces, honest. I fastened them to the control box by using a finishing nail as a pin (a heavy duty pin job at that).

Step 28: The claw is made entirely of thick and thin styrene, styrene strips, and greenstuff. Attach to arm when dry.

Step 29: The support struts were made out of more Shuttle cargo bay parts but could easily be made out of styrene rods or stretched plastic sprue. The strut on the right is the original, the one on the left is the modified version I used.

Step 30: Spread white glue over the entire surface of the base and cover with dirt and allow to dry.

Step 31: Undercoat the entire piece black.

IMPORTANT! Make sure you paint the base separate from the mill and the platform. Otherwise the paint will seal them together.



Step 32: Cover the dirt surface with Americana Burnt Umber.

Step 33: Heavy dry brush base with Vallejo Model Color Flat Earth #983

Step 34: Dry brush base with Vallejo Model Color Stone #104

Step 35: Paint Soul Mill, supports and control panel with Ral Partha Steel

Step 36: Dry brush with GW Boltgun Metal

Step 37: Using a sponge apply black ink wash where you want rust to be and let dry

Step 38: Using a sponge apply sepia ink wash over black wash and let dry

Step 39: Using a sponge apply Vallejo Model Color Flat Earth #983 over black and sepia washes

Step 40: Using a sponge apply Vallejo Model Color Bright Orange #851

Step 41: Seal the entire piece with a thin coat of Krylon Crystal Clear and a thin coat of Testor’s Dullcoat. Allow to dry between each coat.

Step 42: Take the non-business end of a pen or pencil and gently punch out the mask up top that is covering the throat of the Soul Mill. When it is loose you may need tweezers to pull the mask out. Also, use a sharp razor blade to lightly trace around the masks you placed over your window. Be careful not to use too much pressure. You just want to score the paint, you don’t want to cut all the way through the plastic. Then gently remove the masks.

Step 43: Load up a brush with a 50-50 mixture of white glue and water and randomly paint the mixture onto the base.

Step 44: Cover glue mixture with flock/static grass and allow to dry.

Step 45: Now that everything seems finished it is time to make the soul cage. I left this for last because I didn’t want to risk messing up the glass during Step 41. Take the 30-watt bulb and cut it using a dremil with a cutting disk as shown in the graphic below. Discard the filament and metal piece.

Step 46: Sculpt the coupling using greenstuff and allow to cure (see Step 43).

Step 47: Fill bulb with clear silicone adhesive. Some brands claim to be clear but look cloudy like a little bit of milk in a lot of water. The brand I used came in a clear squeeze tube.

Step 48: Add color to the silicone by swirling in green watercolor using a small stirring straw. Allow to cure.

Step 49: Paint coupling with GW Brazen Brass

Step 50: Highlight coupling with Ral Partha Gold

Step 51: Use Epoxy to attach soul cage to mill.

Step 52: Turn the Soul Mill on and turn out the lights.


There you go, a challenging terrain piece you can wow your friends with at your next game.

Afterthoughts: After each step, make sure you still have access to the battery pack and that the lights still work. It would be easy to seal it shut or compromise a wire or something. If I had it to do all over again I would run lights into the Soul Cage and also the control box too.

I am willing to field any questions you may have about this and any other pieces I have done on this site. You may contact me directly at

Cheers,

Nobody